Writer Melissa Alvarado Sierra’s Guide to San Juan

ALMAR contributing writer Melissa Alvarado Sierra grew up in Puerto Rico, so her San Juan is not just hotel lobbies and beach clubs. It’s Old San Juan in the early morning, Piñones for beach day, and Calle Loiza for wine and thrifting. Photos by Eric Ardito.

By ALMAR Editors | Published March 26, 2026

What to eat?

"For breakfast in Old San Juan, go straight to Cafetería Mallorca for a mallorca and coffee. For a more polished morning, Café Regina on Calle Loíza does beautiful coffee and breakfast plates. For lunch or dinner, Vianda in Santurce is one of the island’s smartest tables, and Verde Mesa in Old San Juan is still one of the loveliest rooms for a slower, more intimate meal. If you want a celebratory dinner, book Marmalade. And for classic Puerto Rican flavor, do La Casita Blanca (be ready for long lines) or drive thirty five minutes from San Juan to my hometown Cayey for delicious lechón."

Where to stay?

"If you want Old San Juan charm, stay at Palacio Provincial or El Convento, which have rooftop pools and some of the best locations in the old city. For something moodier and more eccentric, The Gallery Inn is full fantasy. If you want a more current boutique feel outside the old city, Don Rafa in Miramar is one of the shiny newer picks. For a softer, design-conscious stay near Ocean Park, Dreamcatcher works beautifully."

What to wear?

"Start on Calle Loíza. For resortwear and beach pieces, check T Playa and Nude. For jewelry, accessories, and polished, easy clothes, go to Love Is You & Me, Luca, and Mad Love. If you want local design and emerging makers, stop by Moni & Coli, Santurce POP, or Shopconcalma. For a proper guayabera, go old-school with Monsieur on Ashford."

Beauty tips?

"Puerto Rico is not the place for heavy, overworked beauty. Think good sunscreen, glow, a humidity-friendly hair product, and a lip color that survives a drink. For something more special, BLANCA Fragrance Factory at The Mall of San Juan lets you make your own perfume. And if you want a full reset, Spa Botánico at Dorado Beach (near San Juan) is worth the splurge."

And the art scene?

"Santurce first. Do the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, then walk the neighborhood for murals and galleries. For contemporary art, Museo de Arte Contemporáneo is essential. If you want gallery names, go with El Kilómetro, Embajada, Pública Espacio, Cuadrado Gris, Hidrante, and El Lobi. In Old San Juan, Cuartel de Ballajá and Museo de Las Américas are worth your time, and for shopping-meets-art, POP and El Nido are strong stops." 

The best beach?

"If you want the easiest beautiful day close to Old San Juan, do Playa El Escambrón. For a classic local beach day, head to Ocean Park. And if you're willing to get out of the city, go northeast to Luquillo for paradise vibes. If you want looser, surfier energy, go to Rincón. And if you have the time, hop on a ferry (or small plane) and go to Culebra for award-winning sand and water."

Hip, newer spots?

"For newer energy, I’d point people to Don Rafa for stays and Levant at La Concha or Materia Prima at El Convento for dinner if you want something glossy and current. Café Regina still feels right for a stylish breakfast stop, and Calle Loíza remains one of the best stretches for newer retail, coffee, and fashion energy."  

One thing every visitor should do?

"San Juan has enough to keep you busy for a week or more, but if you ahve the bandwidth or time, take a day trip and explore beyond the city. Go to Ponce or Utuado, Naguabo or Patillas. Eat mofongo in the mountains, drink coffee in a fishing village. Let Puerto Rico feel bigger than the postcard and social media version. Another thing, as much as we love sharing our island, we also have been subjected to cruel treatment by some tourists in recent years. Please respect our home, please pack some kindness."♦